Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. CRANKSĬheck the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.”ĭoing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you. This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had. The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored. It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. CABLE STRETCHĬable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars. I suppose an ankle pad would be an option for a long-term fix.After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. I spaced out the bottom bracket and pedal a bit, which helped, but it didn’t fully solve the problem. This is because it’s right at the level of my back foot in descending position. The only challenge for me, personally, is that I tended to ding my right ankle on the raised chainstay when giving it too much English or getting bounced around on rocky sections. Plus, it doesn’t fit into any of today’s bike category boxes it’s a one-of-a-kind design and riding experience. It’s reminiscent of those early ‘90s front-suspension hardtails - like my trusty Yeti ARC with a RockShox Mag 21 - but the exaggerated tires and modern technology make it feel right at home on today’s black-diamond flow trails. It’s fun because it harks back to why we started riding in the first place.namely, for fun. There’s no question: the Trek Stache is a blast to ride. When all was assembled, it tipped the scale at 26.5 pounds, which is right in line with a high-end trail bike. Other component choices include the Selle SMP 209 saddle and Chris King NoThreadset headset. Many ways to dial and adjust these brakes on the fly Reed Apparently, this is something you have to get used to with a plus bike in order to get the most out of it. It should be noted that I bottommed the rear tire on the rim on pretty much every ride - often making a loud ping! noise - but never flatted or compromised the rim in any way. Altogether, the set weighs about 1,700 grams, and each tire weighs about 900 grams. The M6 series is designed for trail use, and with an internal width of 40mm, the 640s support tires ranging from 2.8 to 3.2 inches. I sent the XTR hubs to ENVE to be built with its M640 hoops. The wheel choice, then, was pretty clear. It’s a hardtail that you punish like a full-suspension bike for the pure fun of it (with the added benefit of efficient climbing out of the saddle). This isn’t an XC hardtail, nor is it a bike for Strava PRs. One of the themes of this Stache build is that everything needs to be burly.
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